Fish Tank Supplies

It’s possible that the introduction of these fish tank supplies, Eco Bio-Block and Zero water changes could eliminate the need for water changes and at the very least make your fish tanks a much healthier environment.

EcoBio-Block Family rapidly degrades dangerous ammonia first into nitrite and then into safer nitrates. Other than water clarity the reason to do water changes is to remove nitrite and nitrates which become harmful after time as the concentration increases. This beneficial bacteria provides a way to eliminate these from your fish tank.

“The Zero Water Exchange System is designed to eliminate the fish’s dependency on water changes in maintaining a safe, healthy aquarium environment. This system consists of an advanced combination system of reversed flow undergravel filter, biologic towers, a hang-on-back power filter, and additives to provide a biologically active, clean environment for both freshwater and saltwater aquariums.”

Together this innovation of fish tank supplies makes our fish tanks as safe as possible for our fish. Safer healthier environments make our fish live longer lives. As a bonus less frequent water changes are needed and possibly as we learn more about how well these products work may not even be required in the very near future.

Curing sick fish is a difficult subject because of the factors involved. There are many harmful elements in a fish tank as well as beneficial and if your cure also affects the beneficial elements you could easily do more harm than good. Sick fish are in a state that makes them far more susceptible to their environment and fish tank supplies that result in a sterile environment won’t help your fish. This results in the need for a product that will not attack the Biological filtration but still actively restore good health to your fish.

Melafix is a natural organic compound from plants, an almost antibacterial medication that wipes out mycobacterium and others. It also helps promote the healing of minor injuries for fish. Fish tank supplies like Melafix do not harm the beneficial bacteria in your fish tank because the only kill very specific types.

Melafix is the fish tank supplies “cure all” for minor problems with fish, all though it does fight off some bacterial infections its not a anti-bacteria. Meaning that because it does not kill all the bacteria in your fish tank the particular bacteria that is harming your fish might not always be eliminated. So you can’t believe that Melafix will save you from any and all fish disease but Melafix is an appropriate first measure to take if you fish has open wounds, mouth fungus, damaged fins, tail rot, or when introducing new fish.

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Fish tank supplies for a new manageable Fish tank that you can maintain anywhere. The “new fish tank” means that it’s acceptable by public opinion and that you are caring for your fish in a responsible fashion.

A few years ago it was acceptable to get a gold fish and a bowl some water conditioner fish food and you have a fish bowl with a fish in it. By popular belief the Goldfish although it’s a hardy fish that can survive these conditions is not comfortable being in a fish bowl at room temperature. Although a fish bowl requires a few fish tank supplies that it didn’t a few years ago we can still get a fish tank up and running for a reasonable amount of money. This article is focused on making a safe home for our fish with out spending an absurd amount.

To make sure we have a reasonably safe environment for our fish were going to need a few things. We’re going to need a heater a filter and a tank appropriate for our fish. Using the gold fish as an example, at the very least for a gold fish were going to need a 10 gallon fish tank. These supplies are the deterrent now for Wanna-be fish keepers. When researching this topic I found that for the most part this set up was going to cost $100 or more. That’s not including the fish! Well I think that fish tank supplies should be more affordable. I found and recommend the Marineland Eclipse System Six Aquarium. I found it for $58.99 it comes with everything mentioned above and more. Now because we used gold fish as a example I would like to add this comment. A bio wheel is a filtering system that uses good bacteria to filter pollutants out of the water. Gold fish produce a lot of waste and if after setting up this tank you should submerse a piece of lettuce in this tank for 1 week then remove it. This tank will be perfect for keeping gold fish only after you give it a chance to grow that much needed good bacteria.

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This fish was among those caught in a fence by flood waters brought

by Hurricane Ike in West Orange, Texas, Tuesday, Sept. 16, 2008.

(AP Photo/Eric Gay)

“Y Ike S that’s some crazy storm”

FILTER:Bigger is beter when it comes to filters. Your going to need a filter that can process the water in your tank every hour (gallons per hour rating). This is a list of the top 3 filters for your convience in order starting from apperent “best”. Refugium or wet/dry trickle filter. Canister (Fluval, Ehiem), Biowheel (Marineland) and (Aquaclear) standard hang-on-tank.

POWERHEAD: Circulate dissoved oxeygen though-out your tank. Providing more oxeygen in hard to get to places. Recommendation- Hagen Aquaclear.

HEATERS: I would recommend something that is completely submersible, and has a temperature that you can set. For a saltwater tank 30 gallons or larger, 2 heaters are recommended placing one on each end. This provides heating more evenenly, also your tank will have a back-up making it so the failure of 1 heater doesn’t have a impact on your fish. As a rule of thumb you want at least 5 watts per gallon and half that if using 2 heaters. When heating the water 10 degrees or more above the room temperature, double the watts per gallon. Recommendation- THEO UL Heater 300W.

LIGHTING: If you want corals of plants you want to upgrade your lamps to a 10,000K tube or a 50/50 actinic. Use a compact fluorescent or metal halide. These will provide more intense light for photosynthesis. Recommendation- Metal Halide and T5 Combination Light for Reef Tank

SUBSTRATE : Something made of aragonite will minimize the changes in pH and keep it from falling below 7.8. Most commenly used is crushed coral. Oolitic aragonite and aragonite sand is a very fine grained material. Prefrence depends on the size of the grain of the material.

SALT MIX: Synthetic sea salt is recommended for keeping only fish, Instant Ocean is available almost everywhere. Shrimp and yes snails, crabs, corals all require a higher quality mix.

HYDROMETER: This measures the salt that’s dissolved in water. There are two available hydrometers, one made of glass that floats on the surface more accurate and a plastic container that has a needle that rises and falls as the amount of salt changes. In a fish only fish tank 1.020 - 1.026 would be the ideal gravity reading. When inverts are concerned the reading would ideal at 1.024 - 1.026.

WATER TESTING KIT: minimum of pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate. The API saltwater master kit, which has all these tests.

CLEANING SUPPLIES: elbow length gloves, gravel vacuum, 5 gallon bucket, large plastic container and powerhead for mixing the salt (to be done well ahead of water changes), algae scraper, razor blades for coraline algae and diatoms that like to attach to the glass.

WATER CONDITIONER: for removing chlorine or chloramine from your tap water.

PROTEIN SKIMMER: This removes dissolved and small organic materials that would normally contribute to the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in your tank.

GLASS COVER: Reduces evaporation and closes in the top of your tank that protects your fish for a number of reasons.

LIVE ROCK: This not only makes for a more natural appearance, it also provides hiding places for you fish and increases the biological filtration. The chances are pretty good that the live rock will bring some company with it that will benefit your tank as well.

CHILLER: Your only really going to consider a chiller if the following is affecting your tank. Metal halide lighting is increasing the temperature of your tank, or the water temperature regularly gets above 85. The water temperature should run 76-80.

I have a 30 gallon salt water tank, and i had 2 clown fish that died in my tank. I think its because of the nitrite level is high, so i want to change the water of my tank, but how much should i change and how many time should i change it. (Rember i have a 30 gallon)

What ways are good to keep the Nitrite (NOT NITRATE) level down?

OK first of all didn’t rule out phosphate as a problem i didn’t think this was my problem yet all my levels were fine. the phosphate caused me to loose lots of bacteria on my live rock as well as a fair few fish including my praised flame angel : (. also make sure your filters are working properly. IMPORTANT do not clean it out. however you can clean out the final layer of your filter which will be a sponge or similar used to collect the very fine particles just before the water reenters the tank. these particles often cannot break down in filters so you must remove them manually(not fun). another thing to check is ammonia nitrite basically consumes the ammonia and therefore breeds and becomes abundant. so you need to look at ammonia first. now to lower ammonia feed less, have less fish, have more live rock with good amounts of purple and pink bacteria(i suggest a product called purple up), better filtration. now the thing that eats nitrite is nitrate so possibly turn off your protein skimmer for a week (as it removes nitrate) so as to create a small amount of nitrate which will eliminate the problem if nitrite and then be easy to get rid of by turning the protein skimmer back on (be sure to have a good protein skimmer. i stress check for phosphate and use the product “purple up”. as far as water changes the general rule is change between 15%-25% of your total volume every month (less if you have a good, stable system running) if you have a spike(quick growth in nitrate, nitrite or ammonia) or ust bad levels it is ok to change up to 50% per week i would do a change of 25% 2 times a week. also do not touch the substrate while doing this you will unbalance the creatures that live in it ( you probably dont know they’re even there and it will kick up lots of bad stuff into the water with a number of bad outcomes resulting.

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I have a 37 gal freshwater aquarium just some regular ol community fish nothing special and recently bought some live plants. The guy at the store said we needed to get a new light and suggest the “marine glo” light he said that that was the best light we could get. Now our tank is completely blue. We bought the “yellow” light (Sun Glo) for our smaller tank and it just looks like a regular light. The Blue one we got for the tank says it is for salt water reef tanks. Should we take it back and get something else. I really dont want to have to have a blue light in my tank just for my plants.. Suggestions?

sounds like what you got was an actinic lightbulb, or something in that category made for a saltwater reef tank. All you need is a simple flourescent bulb that fits inside the hood of your tank, and you need to keep it on pretty much 8 to 14 hours a day for the plants to be able to use photosynthesis and grow. For your smaller tank, you have a bulb made for a reptile, which will get really warm. It has vitamins in it, that reptiles need from the UV rays, but i’m not sure that it does anything for the plants. You simply need healthy water, a good CO2 supply (which comes naturally if you have enough fish), and 8-14 hours of lighting a day.
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I have a fresh water tank but know i want a saltwater tank i cleaned out the tank and scrubbed it but what supplies do i need now so that i can make it a salt water tank.
In the tank i want corals and fish.

You will need
Aquarium substrate such as live sand or crushed coral

Live Rock -2 pounds or more per gallon for reef tank setup

Saltwater Mix
Saltwater Hydrometer or even better a refractometer

Aquarium filter (not absolutely necessary if running with adequate amounts of live rock, but nice to have if you need to use a mechanical filter or activated carbon, etc.)

Replacement filter media like filter floss and activated carbon (if you get a filter)
Multiple Powerheads (2 or 3)

Heater -

Protein Skimmer
Saltwater test kit(s) to test water parameters and monitor the infamous aquarium nitrogen cycle

Aquarium vacuum

Aquarium Glass Scrubber or make your own DIY Algae Scraper

Two, clean, never used before, 5-gallon buckets
Aquarium thermometer

Brush with plastic bristles (old tooth brush) - needed for cleaning the live rock

Quarantine Tank for acclimating new arrivals and monitoring for signs of fish disease

Optional but definitely recommend getting a Reverse Osmosis or RO/Deionization filter for the make-up water.

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Fish Tanks and Supplies as a focal point, are empowering as emphasis. Decorative colors and add-ons will definitely make an elegant design treatment in any room.

To some people, having a fish tank in the home may just be having a fixture to make the surroundings more attractive. Some people see fish tanks as just a part of interior decoration but fish tanks offer more. They offer another set of benefits apart from making a home look unique. Watching the fish in a well maintained and well designed fish tank is therapeutic. For one, fish tanks usually have a calm and serene effect that makes them irresistible to look at. Just by looking at the seemingly peaceful nature of an underwater environment, it tends to have a calming effect. You feel relaxed with a fish tank to set your eyes on. The wonderful miniature world can be hypnotizing to gaze at. You become less agitated and anxious having something beautiful to focus on.

Some cultures see fish as an expression of wealth, profit or fortune, even that the fish will bring good fortune to its master. Some simply captivated watching there underwater world teeming with life. Fish tank supplies, whether it is, decorations, lights, or the fish tank itself: add both to your enjoyment and the longevity of your fish.

The result: a true sunken treasure.